“Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan review – a memoir of an obsession”

“For the New Yorker writer, chasing waves was far more than a sport. It was a calling, a means of working out his place in the world”

“William Finnegan finds ‘brief, sharp glimpses of eternity’ on his surfboard.”

"Surfing appears to get you nowhere. You paddle out, you sprint for a wave, you ride it shorewards … and repeat. The sessions last hours; the rides, seconds. At the end of your time in the water, you’re in the same position that you were when you began – only more exhausted and with seawater in your nostrils. It is an exercise in running to stand still.(...)"           (Lido em: Guardian,2015-08-13)